09/10/2014 at 16:44
Yep, we'll be doing a first ride review of the bike in the next issue. It'll be the hi-mod version though which is what I did the first ride on today.
When they're available in the UK and when we've had a chance to ride it more, we'll be doing a full review as well.
23/02/2014 at 20:50
I would like to take this opportunity to clarify that, despite what Helen suggested, there are no men in small pants in the 220 office.
23/02/2014 at 20:42
Sorry Jamie, got to agree with the above. Basically, what I was saying in the grouptest is that disc wheels are, by and large, heavier than, say, 80mm rear wheels (or shallower, obviously). So if you're not the strongest cyclist you won't want to be lugging that extra few hundred grams up and down hills all day long.
Having said that, it totally depends on your definition of 'hilly'. Weisbaden is like 1,500m of climbing over 90km I think, which isn't exactly Alpine. Plus, as the excerpt from Jim Gourley's book 'Faster' that we ran recently said, weight only really becomes an issue when gradient gets upwards of 10%. He looked at two bikes with a 1.5kg weight difference, and the difference in power output needed to ride the two uphill at the same speed only reached 10watts when the road reached 10%. I don't know the course you're riding that well, but I'd imagine there isn't too much 10% climbing!
What I'm saying, in a shockingly long-winded way, is that on an Ironman course, those few extra grams you save by not going disc aren't anywhere near as significant as the aero gains you'll make by choosing one.
17/02/2014 at 12:39
What would you class as your best result ever? Both in tri and in single sports, too...
31/10/2013 at 09:52
Cyclocross typically involves a slightly different mix of components than road riding, and Shimano do thier own 'cross-specific stuff. The brakes, crankset and front derailleur are different. You can see it here:
In terms of groupset hierarchy, it goes (from the bottom up) 2300, Claris, Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Ultegra Di2, Dura Ace, Dura Ace Di2.
In terms of chainrings, 'cross bikes have far smaller rings on the front than road bikes. Usually something like 46/36t or similar. At the back, it's usually similar to a road cassette, but with something bigger at the top, like 12-29. But you'll need to make sure that you're rear derailleur can handle something that big. Most standard rear derailleurs can handle up to about 12-28.
24/10/2013 at 12:04
This is a difficult one. There are plenty of superb bikes available for £1,500 or less, but it very much depends on what you're looking for specifically.
Personally, I ride a Cannondale CAAD10 and I love it to bits. It's a fantastic bike and you can get one for well under your price limit (http://www.evanscycles.com/products/cannondale/caad10-5-105-2013-compact-road-bike-ec042916#select). But my best advice is, if you can, try a few different bikes. Talk to some experts about fit, about what you're looking for in a ride and about your goals. If you're going to be racing 180km on it, you need to make sure you get something that won't cripple you in the process!
Unless you're an absolutely top cyclist, what matters most is the position you can hold on the bike, rather than the bike itself. The rider accounts for far, far more drag than the bike so if you can find something on which you can hold a good aero position (and make sure you can still run afterwards), that's what you need to aim for.
24/10/2013 at 11:44
The way I see it is this: you've got a road bike now, but you don't have a tri bike. If you sell your road bike and get a better road bike, you'll still only have a road bike, albeit a better one.
If you keep your bike and get a tri bike - boom, you've got two bikes. Two bikes are pretty much always better than one. Plus, you can keep the tri bike indoors over the winter, on the turbo perhaps, and ride the road bike outside. Also, as you can ride a tri bike in age-group Olympic-distance races, you'll be able to race on the tri bike even if you never do another Ironman, and still get the aero advantage.
Another bonus of having two bikes is that if something catastrophic should happen to one of them (and I hope it never does!) then you'd still have a bike to train on while the other gets fixed.
Just my opinion though, hope it helps!
24/10/2013 at 11:36
Ultimately, in this case, I reckon it comes down to which you prefer. Both are good bikes, both made from the same aluminium, but the Domane has the bonus of the 'decoupler' on the seattube/toptube junction which means the ride will probably be a little more comfortable.
Having said that (if it's the two models I'm thinking of) you'll get 105 on the Madone and Tiagra on the Domane. Even with the remodelled Tiagra for 2014, I'd personally prefer 105, which is a really good groupset. You'll also get slightly racier geometry from the Madone, which will be useful if you're planning on sticking some clip-on bars on – I'm guessing that's the plan if you're going for Ironman Wales?
Have you had a chance to see either in the flesh or ride either? I think the differences between the two are very small, and giving both a ride might be the only way to really establish which you like best.
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