22/09/2011 at 15:08
Joe Friels section in this months 220tri mag looks at winter training and recommends a book on subject but i guess if your on this forum you've probably already read it.
13/05/2011 at 17:41
I'm taking part in my first IM distance in Nice this year. Now panicking about the bike course as it's not flat and I’m not going to get a chance to ride the course before the race. I've more than covered the distance on the flat with a fair bit of climbing but could do with any advice from anyone out there that's completed the race as i've no real idea of the gradients on all the climbs. There is a commentary on the bike course but could do with as much advice on set up and training as I can lay my hands on - starting last phase of training before tapering.
Bike set up. I'm using my TT bike on the basis it's lighter than my alu road bike but and was going to use a 12-25 cassette with a 53,39 chain ring that I've trained with.
Aero helmet?? I've got one but am I wasting my time wearing the thing on a bike leg that ascends 2400m (I think)
Thanks for any advice
16/02/2011 at 23:43
I bought a ribble Winter Audax bike from them couple of years ago. Bike's ok for the money, customer service was non existant. 2 weeks delivery turned into 2 months. I would call they'd apologise, say they'd call me back, they didn't , i would call again a week later and this continued till it turned up.
When it arrived, it had different parts to those i chosen on the bike builder. They neglected to tell me they'd done this. They used like for like components but it would have been good if they'd told me they we're going to do this. Some components we're the right type but wrong colour but by the time it turned up i didn't care anymore.
I've since bought other components from them which have been fine but i never buy anthing i need straight away and only use them as prices are good.
Bike is good for the what i paid although the paint quality is poor and chips easily. They treated me like just anothe punter once i'd paid up front and for that reason it's unlikely i'd ever buy another bike from them.
If you do go ahead with an order from them I'd make sure you know exactly what you need in terms of sizing etc as when i asked for advice on this over the phone it was as if i'd asked to sleep with one of his relatives and not just some friendly customber service to confirm what i'd ordered was going to be right for me. I'd had a bike fitting for my other road bike and i sent them the spec (as the frame was a sloping top tube I wanted to double check i'd orderd the right size frame) but they didn't seem to give a toss.
29/07/2008 at 23:30
I'm new to tri this year and I’ve not come from a running background so don't quote me on this. I'm sure I read somewhere that you can expect to go 10% slower than your normal/best time on the run when it's part of a tri. I've never run a 10k on it's own in a race so I’ve got no idea if this is the case. It does depend on how much you beat your self up on the bike leg and if you’ve been training with brick sessions to get used to the transition between the bike and run. I've completed 2 Olympic distances this year. I went hard on the bike on the second race and it was hard going on the run, albeit I beat my previous time for the run. I was glad I went hard on the bike and hung on for the run but I’m sure you'll get far better advice from those guys out there who've been at this lark for a few seasons.
As for the pants you don't need them under your tri suit as they are a thinner padded version of a cycle short that you can swim and run in.
Last Post: 13/05/2011 at 17:41